Step by Step Tutorial on Full Bust Adjustment

My daughter has been generously blessed so any tops or dresses that I make for her must have a full bust adjustment. Over the past few years, using the book "Fit for Real People", I have developed some steps that must be done for her tops to fit. I hope that this will help someone who is struggling.

Step by Step Tutorial for Full Bust Adjustment
By Marty Cobb
1. Measure your upper bust by pulling the tape measure tight under your arms, around the back, & to the middle of your chest. This is your shoulder/upper bust measurement which is the number that you will purchase your pattern by.

2. Measure your full bust with your favorite bra on going around the middle & to the center of your bust. This will determine the amount of your full bust. The difference between the 2 numbers will be the amount of the full bust adjustment that you will need to make.

3. Measure from your shoulder bone near your neck to your bust apex (nipple). Be sure to measure each side as the measurement may vary. Mark this on your pattern piece.

4. Note where your darts are located on the pattern piece. Your darts should come to where your apex is so you will be adjusting your darts as well.

5. Add short strips of clear scotch tape along the seam line of the neck & armhole. Clip to the tape about every ½ inch so that the tissue pattern will fit like fabric.

6. Split the center of the side dart almost to the apex. Then from the apex to your waistline measurement, draw a straight line. Now open up the dart the amount needed to add to get your full bust amount. It will look like the dart is hinged. Note: you will be adding length as well as width to your pattern so that the full bust is covered.

7. Split the center of this line to the apex but not cutting thru. You will spread this open to accommodate any fullness needed below the full bust. Lengthen or shorten the pattern as needed for your body shape.

8. Add tissue paper underneath this & tape on top & your pattern will be adjusted for your full bust. Try it on to check that the dart is in the correct position pointing to but not ending at the apex. The center front should be lined up as well as the center back of your pattern piece. Make any adjustments for a broad back or sloping shoulders at this point. After a few tries, this will become easier over time.

This has been adapted from the book “Fit for Real People” by the palmer-pletsch corp & is written according to my understanding of how to make a full bust adjustment.

Clothing Repairs

I promise that I did not drop off of the face of the earth. I have been busy doing clothing repairs for my church members. During the past 2 months, I shortened a dress 3-1/2 inches & hemmed it & the lining. I replaced bra straps on a bra, fixed a bra with a broken ring, & repaired holes in a sweater for a child by sewing the hole closed & adding an applique to cover it. I ended up sewing a seam in another sweater & fixing some of the holes in it plus hemmed a skirt. I then added buttons to 3 pairs of pants for a child. When those things were finished, I shortened 5 pairs of men's slacks 4-5 inches, finished the edges, & hemmed them. I also cut out a top for me & worked on another top plus a dress that I had started a long while back. Today, I got a bag full of summer clothes to mend. That will keep me busy for a while. I also have taught several classes for my ASG chapter & now have a young lady who asked me to teach her to sew. We will start her lessons on Tuesday afternoon. It's been a busy time. God has blessed me in so many ways that I want to give back to others so I do the clothing repairs in exchange for a donation to the church. It's a win-win situation. Happy Sewing everyone!

A Little Mending on the Side

Sorry that it has been so long since I blogged about anything. Since November, most of my sewing has been on hold while my left hand healed. In January, I had surgery for a popped tendon in my left thumb (the one that was almost severed back in 2008). I had to wear a cast for 6 weeks & a brace since then. It kind of gets in the way my sewing especially when one's hand is immobilized. Having completed physical therapy last week,I now only have to wear the brace occasionally. Progress is good. During this time, I've done some mending projects for church members which was hemming pants (5 pair) plus lengthening bra straps. I do wish the local Hancock Fabrics & Jo-Ann Fabrics carried plush elastic as I think replacing the straps would have been easier. However, they do not. I ended buying some embroidered ribbon in a cream color (closest match) & adding 4 inches to each bra that needed to be repaired. The fix didn't take more than 10 minutes each. Deciding the best way to do it took the longest time. I've also started making new cushion covers for my DH's favorite rocking chair. The first set of muslins were scrapped because there wasn't enough fabric for the sides. Now, it's back to square one. Will get new muslins cut this weekend & hopefully the upholstery fabric. I'll post photos when done.
Happy Sewing!!!

New Challenges

Boy, I didn't realize that it's been so long since I wrote a post. A lot has happened. For my birthday in October, I got 5 new to me sewing books - Butterick's Ready-Set-Sew which is a copy of the first sewing book that I ever had. I also got the Encyclopedia of Sewing Machine Techniques, Ready-Set-Serge, Shortcuts to Sewing by Edith Bryte Bishop, & The Serger Idea book. I am enjoying these new editions to my sewing library. My daughter gave me Roberta Carr's sewing DVD "Couture Techniques" & my nephew gave me tickets to my first NBA game. DH took me out to dinner at Outback Steakhouse & sent me a dozen roses. It was a great birthday.

Two weeks later I injured my left thumb while trying to make the bed. At first, my primary doctor thought it was a torn tendon but the MRI showed the tendon is stretched out of shape at the base of my left thumb & osteo-arthritis has set into the basal joint that was chipped. This is the same hand that was so badly injured in the car crash last year. It cannot be repaired so I must wear a hand brace indefinitely which is awkward sewing. Knitting is extremely painful. So for now, I'm trying to learn to sew with one hand. I've faced many challenges over the past few years & have learned to cope. I will with this one too. Earlier this week I used the serger to try to construct a top but had to stop after about 10 minutes as it was too painful. Typing with one hand takes longer too. I will figure out a way to keep sewing as it is in my blood.
Happy Sewing Everyone!

A Seam Ripper Anyone?

These past few weeks has had me busy ripping seams. I have had to replace a zipper, take in 3 tops & sleeves, plus hemming more pants. Taking apart a Nike jacket to replace the zipper took me over 3 hours. I feel like I have a close relationship with my seam ripper. Rip-it, rip-it, rip-it is how it goes. I think I need to get a new seam ripper as the 4 I have all seem to be dull. All of my personal sewing is on hold at this time. I've also been busy making pillowcases, Christmas stockings & ornaments for ASG projects. Our ASG chapter is having its' annual fund raiser by having 2 craft fair booths in November. This is a busy, busy time of the year. Happy Sewing!

More Shopping

Thursday night I went to another trunk show with Peggy Sagers, owner of Silhouette patterns at Hancock Fabric's. She had some new pieces this time which were geared more for the cooler weather of fall. I ended up buying the Yoga Pant pattern #115 & Alesha's blouse #875. I plan to use it as a jacket instead of a blouse so I purchased some black, brown,& dark gold short fake fur. I may line it although the pattern doesn't call for lining. I found the perfect buttons but at $8 each, it was a little pricey. I also bought some new dressmaking scissors (Mundial) for the UMNC along with bobbins & needles. However, I was pleased to find out that I got a 40% discount on all that I bought. All in all, it came to about $50 which was well within my budget. So with 2-1/2 yards of fabric, 3 WOW buttons & my new pattern, I should have a great jacket for those cool days in Memphis. Note: Peggy's measurements on her patterns are all the finished garment size with about 2 inches of ease. She has designed the patterns to be made up quickly on the serger as most people are very busy with little time to sew. I like the fact that all sizes come in each pattern & she has incorporated bust cup sizes in her patterns. I do believe that they can be used in home sewing businesses. If considering that, I would suggest that you call her 800 number to verify. One of my friends who was with me on Thursday night has already made up 3 versions of the Ralph Lauren pant pattern. LOL! She loves them. If you haven't tried Silhouette patterns, I would recommend that you try them. Peggy did say that if anyone had problems with fitting to call her 800 number & she'll tell you how to get a good fit.
Happy Sewing!
Marty

National Sewing Month

My fall sewing is on hold until I get thru the ASG craft fair sewing & new alterations that came in. I'm trying to figure out a plan to be able to sew for me as well as keep up with ASG projects & my sewing ministry. The last two weeks have been stressful for me & I have not been able to have any time to sew. I need to be sewing so I can relax. Anyway, I've thought that maybe I can try sewing ASG items on Mondays & Wednesdays; items for church members on Tuesdays & Thursdays & then sew for me on Fridays & Saturdays. I'm hoping that this will work for me.

I did finish knitting a third prayer shawl while waiting in doctors' offices but forgot to take a photo of it.

This is National Sewing Month & I haven't been sewing. However, the United Methodist Neighborhood Center near where I live has a program to provide Refugee Economic Independence for refugees coming from all over the world. They offer a sewing program & was in need of supplies. Therefore, I sent an email to my sewing friends & asked for donations. Boy, did they respond. On Monday, I was able to take 2 large boxes of fabric & notions, 7 large trash bags of fabric,some sewing books & magazines plus a sewing machine. Since Monday, I have 2 more sewing machines & another couple of bags of fabric to donate plus thread, scissors & notions. It is a wonderful feeling to be able to help others to be able to sew. Tonight, I'm off to see Peggy Sagers again & shop some more. Happy Sewing!
Marty