My daughter has been generously blessed so any tops or dresses that I make for her must have a full bust adjustment. Over the past few years, using the book "Fit for Real People", I have developed some steps that must be done for her tops to fit. I hope that this will help someone who is struggling.
Step by Step Tutorial for Full Bust Adjustment
By Marty Cobb
1. Measure your upper bust by pulling the tape measure tight under your arms, around the back, & to the middle of your chest. This is your shoulder/upper bust measurement which is the number that you will purchase your pattern by.
2. Measure your full bust with your favorite bra on going around the middle & to the center of your bust. This will determine the amount of your full bust. The difference between the 2 numbers will be the amount of the full bust adjustment that you will need to make.
3. Measure from your shoulder bone near your neck to your bust apex (nipple). Be sure to measure each side as the measurement may vary. Mark this on your pattern piece.
4. Note where your darts are located on the pattern piece. Your darts should come to where your apex is so you will be adjusting your darts as well.
5. Add short strips of clear scotch tape along the seam line of the neck & armhole. Clip to the tape about every ½ inch so that the tissue pattern will fit like fabric.
6. Split the center of the side dart almost to the apex. Then from the apex to your waistline measurement, draw a straight line. Now open up the dart the amount needed to add to get your full bust amount. It will look like the dart is hinged. Note: you will be adding length as well as width to your pattern so that the full bust is covered.
7. Split the center of this line to the apex but not cutting thru. You will spread this open to accommodate any fullness needed below the full bust. Lengthen or shorten the pattern as needed for your body shape.
8. Add tissue paper underneath this & tape on top & your pattern will be adjusted for your full bust. Try it on to check that the dart is in the correct position pointing to but not ending at the apex. The center front should be lined up as well as the center back of your pattern piece. Make any adjustments for a broad back or sloping shoulders at this point. After a few tries, this will become easier over time.
This has been adapted from the book “Fit for Real People” by the palmer-pletsch corp & is written according to my understanding of how to make a full bust adjustment.